Alessandro GOGNA

Born in Genoa, Italy, in 1946, he is author, photographer as well as mountaineering historian, mountain guide and opinion maker (on topics related to environment and tourism in the mountains, as well as to freedom in mountaineering), Alessandro is also one of the best Italian climbers after World War II.

Alessandro is among Mountain Wilderness’ founding fathers and was its General Secretary from 1987 to 1991. He has been very active within the Italian Chapter of Mountain Wilderness and among other things he was a member of the working group “Vette senza rotori” (rotorless peaks), that initiated the public debate on the use of helicopters in the mountains.

Alessandro was also involved in the “Clean Climbing” project of MW International.

Drawing on his experience as a mountain guide, he engaged in writing a series of books “I grandi spazi delle Alpi”, a series of eight books collecting historical, geographical and environmental data across the Alps.

Alessandro did the first ascent to the Zmutt Nose in the Matterhorn and the first solo ascent of the Grandes Jorasses’ North face, via the Cassin route.

He also opened more than 150 routes in the Alps, did the first winter ascent of Piz Badile NE face, and took part in several expeditions in Nepal and Karakorum (Annapurna, Lhotse and K2).