Alessandro GOGNA

GognaAuthor, photographer and editor, it is also one of the best Italian climbers after world war two.

Guarantor since the birth of the movement, he assumed the role of General Secretary of Mountain Wilderness International 87-91. Very active in Mountain Wilderness Italy, he participated among other things in the working group “Vette senza rotori”, who initiated the discussions about helicopter use in the mountains. A law based on this work, prohibiting heliskiing and strictly regulating all other aircraft in the mountains usage, is currently debated by the Italian parliament.

Allessandro is currently involved in the “Clean Climbing” project of MWIt

Capitalising on his mountain guide experience, he is engaged in writing a series “Major spaces of the Alps”, composed of eight large-format books, collecting historical, geographical and environmental data all across the Alps.

key Achievements

In the track record of this exceptional climber, two exceptional achievements speak immediately for him: Alessandro is the author of the first of the Zmutt Nose in the Matterhorn and he did the first solo ascent of the Walker north face in the Grandes Jorasses …

He also opened more than 150 routes in the Alps, the winter first of the Piz Badile North East , and participated in three expeditions in Nepal and Karakorum (Annapurna, Lhotse and K2).